Wednesday 1st of Octobre 2008, towards Aitutaki, Cook Islands
Lat S 17.44.6 Long W 154.36.3 Time 13.00, 91 nm
The nightshifts was ok. We had all good speed ....about 4 knots...better than nothing....we hardly have any wind at all...so hopefully we will make better distance this day.
Hasse made fresh bread during our watch....so deliscious! So nice to sit on the ocean early in the morning with fresh bread for breakfast!
I wrote some in the logg book... need to keep up with the writing.
Berndts sunroof came up today also...almost immedietely after the sun came up. We chnge the sails and try to find the setting that makes best speed. Pontus do some service on the dinghy engine. Some of us take a shower.
We still do not catch any fish....Hasse is very disappointed...he says we probably used Photoshop to make all our previous fishing photos....He also suggest we take a oceanfishing boat on the island Aitutaki to get some IF there actually is ANY fish in the Pacific....
Pontus and Berndt sits often on our diesel barrels on the stern doing everything to catch any fish....and suddenly thay catch a fish....a long skinny eel look alike fish that we know is no good eating......
Hasse says that the Pacific has no more fish left....
Thursday 2nd of Octobre 2008, towards Aitutaki, Cook Islands
Lat S 18.35.2 Long W 156.21.8 Time 13.00, 120 nm
Another good night with ok wind. we did almost 5 knots all night....we need that... we cant go this slow....then Hasse and Berndt have to fly from Nuie instead of Tonga...which of course is possible but not what we want. But as I say to them this is what you do not pay for "the adventure" ....you never know!
We do sudoku and read books. I spend an hour copying photos to Hasses hard disc ...Göran did not get all the photos from St Vincent when he went back to Sweden...he misses one year...
We sleep, relax and the sun is shining and the wind is 4-5 m/s...not much but it keeps us sailing. Hasse makes another fantastic dinner....complaining how nice it would be to cook something with newly caught fish......
Friday 3rd of Octobre 2008, towards Aitutaki, Cook Islands
Lat S 18.48.1 Long W 157.05.7 Time 13.00, 62 nm
The night was calm...too calm...we had to take down the main because it made to much noise. Our speed was only 2,5-3 knots....in the morning the wind died and we drifted with the current....about 1-1,5 knots...and actually on the right course.
The sunroof up and this day was even more relaxing than yesterday....we also swam in the big deep blue ocean.
We caught another eel look alike fish....no food...
Hasse found a can of salmon and said this is how close we will get fresh fish....then he made our favorite dish on board...thai chilli chicken with rice!
Just at sunset the wind picked up and we had to take in two reefs, no mizzen sail and no jib sail, just a small genua...and with the wind come the waves so the night was very rolly....
Saturday 4th of October 2008, towards Aitutaki, Cook Islands
Lat S 18.35.2 Long W 156.21.8 Time 13.00, 120 nm
Hasse didnt feel ok so he laid down and tried to sleep during our watch. Jonna came up a couple of times she couldnt sleep either.
Just before 6 oclock Hasse and I caught a fish...a big dorado! .....probably the last fish in the ocean Hasse said.....but he got really happy and immediately strarted to think about how to prepare the fish for us.
Pontus started his watch cleaning the fish. We also took down the spinnackerboom. It had been sitting up all night without being used...it looks a bit funny with this long stick hanging out from the boat on one side. And now it started to disturb the genua.
After that we all, except Pontus, could go to sleep. HAsse and Jonna now slept......not very good but slept anyway.
At 10 it was time to let Pontus to rest and do something about the sails and eat breakfast.
When that was done Jonna steered, I wrote some in the loggbook and the rest slept again....Hasse in Berndts bed, Berndt in Pontus bed and Pontus in Jonnas bed.......strange!
We have just over 40 nm left to Aitutaki...we hope we will make it before sunset....we have good speed so we might manage.
In the evening we saw Aitutaki and a couple of hours later we anchored outside the channel and the reef. There are two other boat anchored next to us. One greman boat that contacted us on the vhf and told us where to anchor.
We ate fish for dinner and slept early...we were all tired.
Sunday 5th of October 2008, Aitutaki, Cook Islands
Early breakfast and getting everyone ashore except Pontus who decided to stay onboard and take it easy with no senoir captain and crew around him.
It is very strong current in the channel to port adn we take paddles with us in case we need to help the little engine on the dinghy....slowly we get through and bring up the dinghy on land.
Today is Sunday and everything is probably closed..but we hope we will find somewhere we can use the internet to contact our families....but we have no luck with that at all but we do find a place where we had a hamburger lunch...and icecream for dessert.
We also manage to pick some chillis, mangoes and a papaya.
Aitutaki has only about 1500 habitants, there is some few hotels (some very luxury), a postoffice, a bank and some places to eat. We walk through the main village and here as we have seen at other islands they bury their reltives on their own yard. Almost every house has a couple of graves at home. I guess trhat is good in a way to hve their relatives next to tme...but can be a problem if they move.....
We find a place where they serve beer so we buy one each and then walk on the beach back to the port.
We take the dinghy back through the channel and meet our neighbours; the german and the french boats. The spanish guy on the french boat has a kayak instead of dinghy. I invite him to our boat...I had a feeling he and Pontus would get along pretty well. And they do so after a couple of beer Caspar decide to get back to his boat and Pontus take him there towing him with our dinghy and Pontus stay a couple of hours on his boat.
We decide that towmorrow we will get ashore, buy some food, try to find some internet and also try to avoid the checking in and out to save some money...I will try my best at the custom.
Monday 6th of October 2008, Aitutaki, Cook Islands
Pontus and Caspar had decided to do some kayaking today before we leave in the evening towards Niue. So the rest of us take the dinhgy to do some shopping and internet. The internet didnt work out the way we planned. There is only one place where you can get internet and only with theirs computers and only two are working and the speed is terrible low...so Berndt get really disappointed and decide to try to ak the hotel we visited yesterday. I followed him there but we couldnt use their internet...only for hotelguests....
But we suddenly hear Pontus and Caspar; they had been guided around the hotel. Some girl Casper met worked there. Caspar had rented a scooter and they were heading for a tour around the island.
So I decided to try to convince the rest that we do the same...it was not hard.
We spent 4-5 hours riding the scooters around the island....I do not think we missed any drive-able road at all...the island is about 8-10 km long and narrow.
We had a very good day! We also find a nice place and had lunch. Just in time to leave the scooters at the rent place we stopped first at the internetplace....where we met Pontus and Caspar. We sat there for a while...and then it started to rain.....very much and very long...so we had to go out in the rain and get back to the store we planned to shop before they closed.
We were totally wet when we finally was back on the boat. It kept on raining so we decided that we leave tomorrowmorning instead.
Hasse made gratin on fish, mushrooms, potatoes and spinach....tasted delicsious as usual when Hasse makes dinner.
Thuesday 7th of October 2008, Towards Niue
Woke up when Hasse asked me where the bakingpowder is. He was making scones for breakfast.
Our plan was to get started early towards Niue but we didnt manage to get on our way until 9.30....we had big problems with getting the anchor up. It was stucked in some coralheads. ut after more than half an hour we finally managed.
Then we sat sail and steered 270 due west...we want to stop at Niue because this is the country we in Sweden has borrowed the ending ".nu" in webadresses...and we do have two computerfreaks on board... Niue is a must stop!...and it is a very convinient stop towards Tonga where Hasse and Berndt will fly back to Sweden.
We are in a bit of hurry...and we all are also a bit tired of all this sailing...we really would like to have more time ashore....but I did know this when I planned this trip...lots of sailing...but this was the only option otherwise I would not have had the chance to do this trip at all...and as the rest of us ...except Pontus...we do not have all the time in the world...we really need to get back to reality...soon...
Wednesday 8th of October 2008, towards Niue Time 9.30 Lat S 18.58.5 and long W 161.44.8, 113 nm
We did good speed during the night and we are very happy with that. It is not much wind and we still make 5 knots. We have another steering schedule; Helena 18-22, Jonna 22-00, Pontus 00-02, Hasse 02-04 and Berndt 04-06 and the the same hour during the day. I have the longest hours but than I also have the easiest ones and can sleep all night. And in the morning and also in the evening the others are up and keep me company.
We have tradewinds and they are about10 knots. The clouds look like cotton.
Jonna makes fruitsallad for lunch. And for dinner Hasse makes fried dorado with corn and rice.
Thursday 9th of October 2008
Time 9.30 Lat S 19.18.1 and long W 163.57.7, 126 nm
Well same, same but different...we have good speed in this light wind. We read a lot and do suduko.
We almost caught a dorado but it got away. Better luck next time! So the chef has to find something among the cans and simsalibim we eat thai nudles with chicken, vegetables and chilli for dinner.
Friday 10th of October 2008
Time 9.30 Lat S 19.43.9 and long W 165.53.5, 122 nm
The night was rolly but otherwise uneventful. Our speed is 4-5 knots and sometimes almost 6 knots. When Berndt wakes me up it is already 7 oclock. Hasse wakes up and we decide to change the sails a bit. Then Pontus wakes up and Jonna and we eat breakfast. Hasse has been busy this night with baking bread to us.
We continue with the reading, sleeping and today also some of us is taking a shower.
Saturday 11th ofOctober 2008
Time 9.30 Lat S 19.19.8 and Long W 167.57.6, 124 nm
Another day with sun and a nice tradewind. We read, rest, sunbathing, take showers, do suduko and cook food. No fish.
Dark big clouds in the evening makes us change sails. Two reefs in the main. No mizzen, small rollergenua and no jib. We sailed slow and waited for the bad weather but it only got a bit wet and then passed us calmly.
Sunday 12th of October 2008, Niue
Time 9.30 Lat S 19.12.3 and Long W 169.48.8, 100 nm...15 nm to the harbour
Despite dark clouds yesterday evening the night is calm. A lot of clouds and stars and a fullmoon. Hasse made two bread loafs in the night. Berndt is getting wet in the rain in the morning and I got even wetter....it poured for two hours.
We sailed south of Niue and then up along the westcoast to the town Alofi. A couple of miles before we anchored we saw humpback whales jumpimg in the water.
We listened to the VHF and it seemed to be bust with incoming sailors today. And when we anchored we found out that 7 boats arrived today. We hooked up on a mooring, not possible to anchor here.
One of the boats that arrived last night was our spanish friend Caspar we met in Aitutaki (he has a french boat Octobasse). And he came smiling to us paddeling his pink kayak.
We all ate minestrone soup and fresh bread before we went ashore. The custom called us on the VHF and asked us to get ashore and clear the customs. So we all went.
Taking the dingy was a procedure when getting ashore...we have to hoist it up on the dock...to much swell. After custom we took a walk in the maintown Alofi...it seems a bit abandon...like north of Sweden with empty houses falling apart. Hasse found a restaurang that was open on a Sunday so we decided to go there after taking a hot shower in the harbour. We got as key from the Yachtclub.
We spent the evening at the restaurang. Pontus went to Caspars boat for a while.
Monday 13th of October 2008, Niue
Nice sleep despite some swell.... it is much calmer and more quiet comparing to nights when we sail.
We took our laundry ashore to get it done at the Yachtclub. Then we wanted to check our computers and internet...of course....and we got connected to wifi that will also work on the boat. So we decided to rent bikes and take a tour around the island. We rented 3 Zuzuki 125cc. Caspar wanted to go with us. But we needed Niue driver licenses to rent so when we checked in with the emmigration at the policestation we all got driver license at the same time.
We took the bikes around the island and stopped to look att caves, swim in natural pools. We stopped at a diveshop to see if we could manage to go diving tomorrow before we leave the island. Maybe we will be able to dive in the afternoon if there is less swell. We decide tomorrow. Niue has a very clear water to dive in.
We were all very hungry but there is no places to eat than in town Alofi...so we finnally ended up at the yachtclub...again... to eat a very late lunch.
Pontus stayed ashore while the rest of us went out to the boat and spent a couple of hours with our computers.
Jonna checked her mail and had a sad mail from her sister saying that her mother is very sick.
Thuesday 14th of october 2008, towards Tonga
We woke up early. Hasse and Berndt went ashore to buy fresh vegetables at the market.
I updated the website and Jonna checked her mail again and sadly to say her mother died a couple of hours ago.
The divingboat passed by to say that there was to much swell for diving at the divespot we decided yesterday. So we took the bikes instead and went for a tour to check the windward side before it was time to return the bikes.
We had a sandwich for lunch and then checked out. We left the island around 15.30. we now have about 300 nm to Tonga where Berndt and Hasse leave the boat and fly to New Zealand.
The wind was light and we did not sail more than 3 knots in average during the night.
Wednesday 15th of October 2008, towards Tonga
Time 15.30 Lat S 19.12.3 and long W 169.48.8, 100 nm
Noy much wind in the morning either. Just rain. When Jonna took over the wind came back and we did 5-6 knots. We made good speed all day so we were happy.
We steer, sleep, eat and read.
At the evening we think it might be bad weatjher so we take down some of the sails. There is not very strong wind and we still do 6 knots all night.
Thursday 16th of October 2008, towards Tonga
I have no idea where this day went...we just passed the dateline....and suddenly we are 12 hours ahead of Sweden!
Friday 17th of October 2008, towards Tonga
Kl 15.30 Lat S 19.12.3 och long W 169.48.8, 100 nm
We have done lots of distance this night. We make almost 140 nm in 24 hours which is very good we think. With this speed we will reach Tonga to early in the morning which is not good at all; there is to much reefs to pass.
We have cloudy weather all day. We pass the Tonga trench which is very deep, 10 000 m.
We offer our rusty bicycle and BBQ to King Neptun...and we hope he will be nice to us....when we passed the equator he got sour herring....he might not have liked that at all.
We try to catch a fish....but no luck!
Saturday 18th of October 2008, Pangiamotu, Tonga
We didnt see land until a couple of hours after the sun was up. The wind has calmed and we do not do more than 3 knots. So we anchor 2.30 in the afternoon outside the island Pangiamotu not far from the harbour and the capital Nukalofa. We have heard there might be problems with checking in on Saturdays so we might have to wait till Monday which may cause a bit problems for Berndt and Hasse...they have a flight to catch at 10.50 in the morning.
We saw two other swedish boats and stopped by one of them to find out how to do with the custom and emmigration. He advised us to take down the yellow flag and wait until Monday to check in....so that is what we did..
We wanted to get ashore so we made an effort to check in with no luck and went to a cafe instead. We had lunch. We also booked a guided tour tomorrow Sunday. Jonna checked her mail and I waited while Hasse and Berndt went back towards the boat to find some meat to BBQ at the Yachtclub. Jonna and I also found meat so it ended up that we had meat for three dinners
We spent the evening at the yachtclub, ate a nice dinner drank a couple of beers and talked to other sailors heading for new Zealand.
Sunday 19th of October 2008, Pangiamotu, Tonga
Today we spent the whole day touring around the island with a guide that did not know much.....when we asked when it happened the answer was many years ago....which could mean 800 or 20 years ago.....
Pontus stayed at the boat and sold almost all our diesel we do not need....325 litres.
After the guided tour we took our dinghy back to the mothership; half an hour against the wind in almost darkness.
berndt wanted to buy us a "departure" dinner; but the kitchen at the yachtclub was closed. I asked Big Mama if the kitchen really was closed.....and suddenly they could fix hamburgers and fish n chips!
Monday 20th of October 2008, Pangiamotu, Tonga Today Hasse and Berndt have to fly back to normal life.....
We got up at 06, we took the boat and anchored outside the harbour with yellow flag up. We went to custom to check in and then emigration. We had to do that before Hasse and Berndt could check out from the airport. They really didnt have much time over but somehow we managed to get first in line and send the boys to the airport while I was finishing up at emigration. The did manage to catch their flight.
Jonna phoned to Sweden to find out when she will have to be back in Sweden. We need to know so we can plan the rest of the trip. As it seems like now the best for us is to sail to New Zealand as soon as possible and Jonna flies back to Sweden from Auckland. Pontus and I need Jonna as long as possible and New Zealand is a good alternative and not so far away.
Back to custom and finished it up there. And then out to the boat and Pontus.
We motored back to Pangiamotu and anchored. Pasta and pesto for lunch. Checked all the food; need to see what we need to buy before we leave Tonga.
We had dinner with the other swedish boats we just met at the bar.
Thuesday 21st of October 2008, Pangiamotu, Tonga
Big cleaning day on the boat today! And we also found stuff that Hasse and Berndt left.... even though Hasse have e-tickets he left his hole package of papers with insurance, flight schedules, receipt and his calculator to his internetbank...and Berndt forgot his Ipod...well well....
We have now almost decided us for NZ. All the boats around us is heading for NZ, they are waiting for the best weather to leave. So we think this is the best alternative for us. Jonna will be able to stay with us for another three weeks so we will have time to sail there and hopefully we can see something in NZ before she leaves. I will stay another two weeks and start the procedures with selling the boat. Pontus will stay in NZ till the boat is sold
We spent the evening at the bar. We brought one of our big swedish flags and donated it to Big Mama Marina. We wrote our names on it and also the two other swedish boats names; "Lindisfarne" and "Albertina". It is now the biggest flag in the bar....
Wednesday 22nd of October 2008, Pangiamotu, Tonga Today we continued with cleaning the boat. All the rust rinnings on the outside of the boat and we cleaned the bottom. Change of oil in the engine.
Jonna and I took a walk around the island.
Spent the evening in the bar. I used their electricity and wrote some in the loggbook.
Dag 170 Thursday 23rd of October 2008, Pangiamotu, Tonga Jonna and I went to town with Bernardo på "Albertina"...a swedis singlehandler.
We spent a couple of hours on a internetcafe, loaded the website...but the intenet was so slow so hardly no photos was uploaded.
We took the small ferry back to Pangiamotu.
We spent the evening on the boat. Bernardo came to visit us and didnt leave until late.
Day 171 Friday 24th of October 2008, Pangiamotu, Tonga Woke up late. We all went to Nukalofa and spent the day ashore in town to check out. We are planning on leaving this weekend if the weather is ok and some of the other boats will leave.
Back on Pangiamotu there was lots of activities:
volleyball, boule with cocosnuts and then waterballon war and the a buffe.
Day 172 Saturday 25th of October 2008, Pangiamotu, Tonga We will stay another day and probably leave for NZ tomorrow. We get weather reports from Lindisfarne; they have SSB and can get weather every day.
In the afternnon Jonna and I decide to paddle to Nukalofa and buy some fresh food and we did. We needed som meat for the BBQ in the bar tonight.
We decide to leave tomorrow morning and stop overnight not far from the reef and then on monday morning go outside and head for NZ. The wind will come on Monday according to the latest weatherforecast. It will take us about 10 days to sail to NZ.
Day 173 Sunday 26th of October, Atata motu,Tonga We eat breakfast before we take up the anchor and motor to Nukalofa. Jonna and I paddle ashore to phone to Sweden and tell them we are leaving tomorrow for NZ.
We motor a couple of miles and then anchor not far from the outer reef.
Lindisfarne had decided to do the same as us and they are already anchored when we arrive.
We took a swim and then paddle ashore and took a walk along the beach. We invited Lindisfarne for dinner and when they went back to their boat we looked at a movie and then went to sleep.
Day 174 Monday 27th of October,Atata motu,Tonga
Not much wind but decide to go anyway. We motored out a bit and then got some wind, enough to sail. Not fast but we are moving.
We are heading to Minerva Reef, about 260 nm southwest of Tonga. There we can if the wind is calm stay inside a ringreef...it will be protected from swell but not wind. And we might caught lobsters or other shellfishes...and sleep properly for a night or two. We decide which shifts we will have: Helena 18-22, Jonna 22-02 and Pontus 02-06.
We catch a Dorado XL...now when Hasse is gone the fish will come back!
We have wind from the side and the boat is almost selfsteering. The sea is a bit rolly so Jonna has seasickness plaster and I chew chewinggums...
Day 175 Thuesday 28th of October Lat S 22.02.2 Long W 176.41.0 Time 10.00, 104 nm Boring weather. Rolly sea. I feel seasick. None of us are hungry. So we steer and we lay down and rest.
In the afternoon the wind picks up. Pontus and I change shift...i do not feel ok and i need to put a plaster on and it takes a while before it works and I am tired.
Day 176 Wednesday 29th of October Lat S 22.50.5 Long W 178.06.7 Time 10.00, 105 nm Jonna and I feel a lot better today, we can cook and eat.
In the evening we get relly bad weather very fats and all of us has to be up; Jonna steers and Pontus and I take down all sails. We just have the jib up. The wind is so strong that the sea flattens out.
It stays that windy a couple of hours and then it get backs to normal windy weather...around 20 knots. We pass Minerva Reef in the middle of the night. It is very dark and we do not dare to rely on GPS and go through the pass inside the reef so we decide to keep on sailing towards NZ.
We get in contact with Lindisfarne. They are already anchored inside the reef . They give us the latest weather report and also promise to send Göran an email and tell him everything is ”so far so good”.
Day 177 Thursday 30th of October Lat S 24.13.9 Long W 179.28.4 Time 10.00, 110 nm The wind decrease during the night. We are doing 4-5 knots and she is almost selfsteering. We listen to music, audiobooks, read books and rest.
The waves gets smaller and we can do 5-6 knots. We have nice weather. Jonna is sunbathing....it will be cold and rainy and no sunbathing when she is back in Sweden.
Pontus gets up in the mizzen to get out a rope from the windgenerator; unfotunately one of the blades is gone. It happened in the strong wind we had yesterday....the mizzen halyard is stuck there. He gets the rope and also lock the generator...it cant be moving when it is one blade gone...makes it wooble...
We take down some sailarea in the evening as a precaution...
The nights are getting colder...we need jackets and trousers, socks (Pontus and I have one pair...together....the one on shift can have the socks...) and boots....
Day 178 Friday 31st of October Lat S 25.26.6 Long E 179.25.6 Time 10.00, 107 nm The night was calm.
We pass the dateline....we have now long east instead of west.
We are doing 5 knots. we see an aeroplane coming towards us; it is New Zealand Air Force One checking up boats going towards NZ....so we give them information about us on the VHF.
We take down some sailarea as usual in the evening. Calm night but COLD!